Eco-friendly vegan alternatives to leather now include pineapple leather, wine leather, cork leather, soya, apple, paper, mushroom, and even tea leather known as teather. These new products are durable, non-toxic, and some can often be recycled back into the soil — I like them a lot more than skinned animal leather!
Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion Launch! Stitched Up!
Instead we are people, citizens, activists… Thinking only about shopping is a neo-liberal dead-end. It only benefits the brands. I think they do. I think people are more connected and concerned than ever before. It is weird when individual body parts get fetishised and turned into trends of their own.
The main thing with such trends is keeping a sizeable portion of the population feeling inadequate and having to spend money on clothes, uncomfortable underwear, gym memberships, surgery and so on.
At the moment we are sadly a long way from that point. Your book is very bold and controversial and this is why I love it. It is aggressive in a polite way, giving the facts and not beating around the bush. At some point in your book, you mention that journalist Hadley Freeman from the Guardian, who had been banned from Jean Paul Gaultier shows for life, after accusing him of gleeful savagery for his use of fur.
After publishing this book, did something similar happened to you -not only from fashion designers but from corporations or media? I was never really one for attending fashion shows anyway so no one took away any invitations. I definitely think that if Stitched Up had been more reverential towards the fashion industry that I might have been invited to do different kinds of things — however the most important thing for me was to tell the truth, link things together, and not let anything slide. I met some fantastic people by writing Stitched Up and lots of journalistic doors opened up for me, so I am not complaining!
Tansy Hoskins interrogates today's fashion landscape with rigour, intellectualism and gut instinct. A fine investigation of the cultural tyranny of a multi billion pound industry [that] operates as if above censure' - Lucy Siegle, writer for The Observer and author of To Die For. Tansy Hoskins lays bare the capitalist relations of production, marketing and consumption that sustain the fashion industry, and calls for a revolution to liberate us from its tyranny.
Clothes will never look the same again!
Stitched Up: the Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion Launch!
- Stitched Up : The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion.
- Stitched Up.
- Yielding to the power of God;
Moving between Karl Lagerfeld and Karl Marx, the book explores consumerism, class and advertising to reveal the interests which benefit from exploitation. Hoskins dissects fashion's vampiric relationship with the planet and with our bodies to uncover what makes it so damaging.
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Why does 'size zero' exist and what is the reality of working life for models? In a critique of the portrayal of race in fashion, the book also examines the global balance of power in the industry. Beautifully illustrated with specially commissioned designs, In a compelling conclusion Stitched Up explores the use of clothing to resist. Fashion tends to become rags in time and as such it came to play a role in the original Marxist presentation.
Marx and Engels called the poorest class the lumpenproletariat ; lumpen meaning cloth rags. The various tricks of the textile industry provided good ground for Marx and Engels to underscore the malevolent practices of capitalist industry. In Capital , volume three, Marx observes how the use of waste, for example, in the wool industry, makes substandard materials that generate more profits over time, because of their inferior quality. Fashion is a total system. What is stitched up here are the arguments, each one perhaps more or less known and already much debated in various forums: fashion oppresses larger women, the media are bullies, labouring conditions in the fashion industry are dismal, the planet is suffering under poorly regulated capitalism, new technologies, such as digital retouching tools, oppress us further, under capitalist ownership.
The threads of capitalist exploitation and oppression are shown to be a whole tissue, though conversely, the fashion system also comes to represent just one thread of a greater fabric of capitalist production. If it is the case, as is argued, that one in six people working in the world toil in the fashion industry, then might it be that fashion is, as Marx asserted, at the core of capitalism and that it all the more legitimately provides a lens through which to explore it, rather than being aberrant?
The book does not content alone with outlining the horrors of the system. Various points of unravelling are proposed.
- Stitched up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion - Counterfire.
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The system will not unravel itself. It needs a dramatic act of unpicking or shredding.
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The final chapters propose ways to tear into this capitalist fabric, from subtle resistive ways in subcultural dress or other non-normative approaches to ethical consumerism, although the latter are shown to be inadequate, because they do not rip up the whole design. Fashion needs, as the final chapter puts it, to be revolutionised, which means that the whole mode of production needs to be overturned and remade.
Reformism is too small a drop in an ocean of exploitation. Only the abolition of capitalism can provide conditions for fashion that is creative and cruelty-free. Does this miss something of how fashion has been and might yet be used for political analysis or even augury? Marx was adept at reading it in this way. Elsewhere, Marx notes the reactionary nature of the French politicians establishing modern bourgeois society from until Fashion is material, but it is also powerfully metaphorical — it quotes, disguises, reveals and connects.
What do we do with that key though?
What can it unlock?
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